Saturday, June 08, 2013

Sunday, April 21, 2013

Still on my 'to do' list

One place I'd still like to visit is Kangwu monastery near Muli - known to Joseph Rock as 'Kopati'. It was one of the Muli king's three residences and seems to be the one he favoured as being more personal and homely compared to the grandeur and formality of the big monastery complex at Muli proper. This is one of the few modern pictures of Kamgwu that I have been able to find on the Chinese interwebs:


Sunday, April 14, 2013

Tibetan pilgrim on Kawa Karpo kora, Oct 2012

The pilgrims travel in family groups and use bamboo rods as walking sticks.

Tibetan pilgrim female on Kawa Karpo Kora, Oct 2012

Got my Epson V500 scanner working on my Ektachrome 120 photos so will post a few highlights from our Kawa Karpo/Doker La trek from last October soon. Here's one to start you off ...

Friday, April 12, 2013

Intermission - Digging through the archives

Been a bit quiet lately as I have been moving between the UK and Australia. Now back in Sydney and hope to post a few interesting snippets about the Joseph Rock archives that I perused at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Edinburgh. Fascinating to read Rock's diaries and see some of his correspondence with people such as Alexandra David-Néel (touchingly asking him for hints on how to get published). Will post more pics of my photos once I get my scanner unpacked and sorted.

Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Kawa Karpo kora Day 3


Kawa Karpo kora Day 3, originally uploaded by jiulong.

This is the 'bowl pass' on the way to Chonatong camp.

Sunday, January 13, 2013

Kawa Karpo kora: Looking down on Abing, Tibet (Nujiang)

Kawa Karpo pilgrim with an iPhone

Taken on Day 3 - on the way up to the Abing Pass. A pilgrim, like many, who spent a lot of the trek mucking about with his phone.

Saturday, January 12, 2013

George Patterson 1920-2012.

Sad to hear of the death of the remarkable George Patterson, a Scottish missionary turned adventurer who was in Kangding at the time of the Chinese takeover of Tibet. George went to Tibet as a medical aid missionary on behalf of the Plymouth Brethren. Although he wasn't a qualified doctor, he lived and worked providing medical aid to the Khampa people of Kangding in the era 1947-50. When the Red Army invaded, he rode over the Himalayas on behalf of the Dalai Lama to send an appeal to the western and Indian governments via Sadiyah in India. After Tibet came under Chinese rule he went back to the west but later returned to Asia and made forays into China. He eventually settled back in Scotland, and I was surprised to hear that he was not only alive but  active at the time of the Beijing Olympic Games, protesting on behalf of a free Tibet. He even had his own website. His spirit and adventures were remarkable, but I have to admit that I found his books a bit hard going.

Friday, January 11, 2013

Close up of the Doker La pass.


Close up of the Doker La pass., originally uploaded by jiulong.

Western (Tibetan) side of the border pass between Yunnan and Tibet. Taken with a Bessa R2 90mm Tele-Elmar and Ektachrome. Oct 2012.

Thursday, January 03, 2013

Kawa Karpo Kora


Kawa Karpo Kora, originally uploaded by jiulong.

Rolleiflex 3.5F and Ektachrome E100G

Tuesday, January 01, 2013

Cangshan, Dali, in 2012 - and 22 years earlier

Here is a picture of the Cang Shan summit ridge - and specifically a place called 'Horse Drinking Pool'. This was taken in October 2012 with my Rolleiflex 3.5F and Ektachrome. Below is a picture taken by me from the same spot 22 years earlier. It was taken during my first ever trip to China in October 1990. I had just met my wife-to-be Linda in Guilin and was on the backpacker circuit doing Kunming-Dali etc before returning to Hong Kong. Me and a few other backpackers did a day hike up to the Cangshan peaks courtesy of Jim (of Jim's Peace Cafe), who hired a tractor to take us half way to the top on a rough service road. This first picture was taken with an old Praktika and used colour print film that was developed in HK. As you can see, in 1990 the summit area was fairly wild and untouched. now there is a cable car installed to bring tourists up to an alpine hut and walkway. I should say that this is quite tastefully done and fits in with the environment - quite unlike the concrete ugliness inflicted on the Yading nature reserve.


Cangshan peaks, 苍山, Dali, Yunnan, 1990

Cangshan mountain summit ridge, above Dali, Yunnan

Taken with a Rolleiflex 3.5F and Ektachrome E100G, October 2012.

Sunday, December 30, 2012

Tibetan pilgrim woman on Kawa Karpo circuit, Oct 2012

Taken with Rolleiflex 3.5F and Kodak Ektachrome E100G. I think this was on Day 3, after we had tackled the Doker La.

Saturday, December 29, 2012

Dali Cangshan summit ridge


Dali Cangshan summit ridge, originally uploaded by jiulong.

Interlude:this is a pic I shot on the summit ridge of the Cangshan range above Dali. It use to be a right old slog to get up here - we hiked up in 1991 and it was awesome. In Oct 2012 I went back and this time was able to take the new cable car all the way to the top (or at least to that Alpine Resort you can see in the background). Still a brilliant place - around 4000m.

Friday, December 28, 2012

Looking down into Tibet from the Doker La

Just over the steepest bit! Taken with a Bessa R2, Summicron 35mm lens and Ektachrome E100G.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

The trek that my kids did ...

Scanning a few pics of the Kawa Karpo kora (well half kora ...) - including some of my teenage sons who did the trek with me back in October ...
Didn't they do well?

Monday, December 24, 2012

The Doker La


Doker La, originally uploaded by jiulong.
This is the first of my (many) pics from the Kawa Karpo outer kora - just a rough scan with a cheap Canon 8000F scanner - hoping to get my Epson working soon. Pic taken with Rolleiflex 3.5F and Ektachrome.

Monday, December 17, 2012

Kawa Karpo kora - want to see some amazing photos?

Unemployed and rather skint at the moment, which is frustrating when I have about 20 rolls of 35mm film and a similar number of 120 format rolls of Ektachrome from the October Kawa Karpo kora that still have to be developed.
While I'm waiting to visit CC Imaging in Leeds, have a look at these great pictures by Peter Jost - who did the full kora at the same time as me, but with a group of fellow Aussies.
There's another album of amazing photos from the same kora taken by our other trek mate Darren Farley (from Calgary). Some great portraits there of the many pilgrims we met along the way:




Sunday, December 09, 2012

Dali Cangshan - wish I was here!


Dali Cangshan, originally uploaded by jiulong.

It's cold and grey in the UK.

Wednesday, November 14, 2012

New website! www.josephrock.net

I've now registered the domain www.josephrock.net for this site, so people in China (hopefully) will also be able to read the articles (blogspot sites being blocked by the Great Firewall).

Sunday, November 04, 2012

Yes! I 'did' the Doker La!

Just back from China, after completing half of the Kawa Karpo outer kora. Crossed from Yongzhi near Deqin to the Nujiang at Abing. Didn't compete the second half due to blisters and other factors (lack of time and money). However, the five days I did spend on the trek were amazing. Had perfect weather and saw some great scenery. And even more amazing, bumped into last year's Yading trek partner Peter on Day 2, while camping just below the Doker La. Had a surreal meet up with him and his three fellow Aussie trekkers at breakfast after unwittingly camping right next to each other!

Crossing the Doker la was fantastic - not quite as hardcore as I expected to get up there - but super scary steep going down the western side! I nearly bottled it when I first saw how steep it was but my guide shamed me into continuing and literally held my hand over some of the worst and most exposed sections of the track. And ironically, after spending years wondering what it would like to be up there, I spent only a few moments on the actual pass as it is a knife edge and smothered with prayer flags - not a place you can linger and soak in the atmosphere.

Overall, I found the trek to be quite tough in some ways - lots of up and down, and yet I trekked with a Canadian guy Derren who managed to do it in sneakers with just a sleeping bag, a sheet of polythene and an umbrella! I needn't have brought the tent (or even the stove) as there are pilgrim way stations at regular intervals along the kora which all have primitive shelters, shops and hot water.

More updates soon when I get the photos developed.

Sunday, August 19, 2012

My book "In the Footsteps of Joseph Rock" is now online

Book cover

Please see the index on the right - you can click to see the whole book (10 chapters, one for each of Joseph Rock's expeditions), or you can click on individual chapters. Hosted by Scribd. Let me know what you think.

Friday, August 17, 2012

Happy snaps from Labrang (Xiahe) 拉卜楞寺

In the window of the local photo portrait shop.

Random image from Labrang (Xiahe) monastery 拉卜楞寺

In a Lanzhou beef noodle restaurant on the main street of Xiahe.

Random image from Labrang (Xiahe) monastery 拉卜楞寺

Taken during a climb up the hill opposite (south) of the lamasery.

Tuesday, August 14, 2012

Labrang (Xiahe) monastery 拉卜楞寺

Pics taken with Ektachrome and Leica R3 during a visit in May 2012

Saturday, August 11, 2012

Labrang (Xiahe) monastery 拉卜楞寺

Pics taken with Ektachrome and Rolleiflex 3.5F during a visit in May 2012

Golden stupa, Labrang, 1923 and 2012


Golden stupa, Labrang, 1923, originally uploaded by jiulong.

And in 2012: Labrang (Xiahe) monastery 拉卜楞寺