"The king of Muli holds spiritual and temporal power over 22,000 subjects ... His power is absolute in a territory about the size of Massachussetts. The robes he wears are those of a Living Buddha, and the temple banner directly behind him is a representation of the entire Tibetan pantheon." - Joseph Rock 1928.
Today the throne is empty. There is a living Buddha at Muli - but he was not present when I visited