At Laoyulin [老榆林] I negotiated the hire of a couple of horses and guide with the first bloke I met on the road. He was called Gong Xianyao in Chinese, and he wanted something like 80 yuan a day per horse. Once we'd agreed to terms, he said he would send his son to go get the horses. I thought this would be half an hour. It turned out to be half a day - we didn't set off until the morning.
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